Saturday 19 December 2009

A walk from Mungrisedale village

This pleasing walk starts from Mungrisdale village, rather than the delightful Cumbrian valley. It is the main village of the valley, which includes the smaller hamlets of Mosedale and Bowscale and several scattered fell farms.


  1. After parking, look for the spectacular 18th century limekiln behind the recreational centre and then walk on to pass, on the left, the lane that continues to Scales. A few steps along, turn left into a track, where you are also invited to park (honesty box). Carry on along the track, once reinforced to carry traffic to the lead mines, with the River Glenderamackin to your left and directly ahead the spectacular nose of The Tongue. Ignore a path that carries on along the side of the river as it winds away below Souther Fell, and follow the wide track that climbs quite steeply at first and then curves round the left side of The Tongue. Across to the left, and towering over Bannerdale Beck as it meanders through it dale, looms Bannerdale Crags.
  2. Where the path divides at a pile of stones, take the narrower path on the right. The left hand grassy track leads to the old lead mine on the steep slopes of the Crags. The path you need heads straight up the fell, climbing gently all the way. Look out as you go for the first appearance of Blencathra ‘peeping’ over the top of the Crags. After a long delightful grassy climb the path becomes a little eroded and just beyond stands a small cairn. From here the path to the Crags winds left. This walk carries on ahead on an indistinct path, which soon levels and becomes clear as it nears a cross of grassy tracks and paths, marked with a tiny cairn. Turn right and stroll the grassy highway to what seems to be the summit cairn of Bowscale but is in fact a rough semi-circular shelter of rocks. This is the highest point on Bowscale (2300ft/702m) and is very useful for an out-of-the-wind place for your first stop. From here you can see Lonscale Fell, Great Calva and Knott. Then walk on along the flat stony top, where least willow and mountain everlasting struggles to survive, to the cairn, from where the views are superb.
  3. Return along the grassy swathe and at the cross of tracks, carry on ahead to walk along the rim of Bannerdale Crags (2230ft/683m), all the way to the cairn, a rough slatey affair. Again you will want to pause to enjoy the pleasing views. Then turn right and descend another good grassy swathe towards the col at the right end of Blencathra. Here several paths and tracks meet. Avoid all of these except the good narrow path going ahead onto Mungrisedale Common. A short way along you come to a rather rough shallow gully and the distinct path goes on but this is not the path you need. Climb a few steps out of the gully and then head up the shallow left slope to come to a distinct narrow grassy path (can be boggy after rain) heading gently and almost level, diverging away from the other path across the extensive moorland, for nearly a mile. After a dry spell the path is great but you can see the dried bog plants and on either side some dark pools. As you progress look for pyramidal Great Calva and then Lonscale Fell. Just before the bouldery small cairn (2068ft/633km) with an iron fence post sticking out of it, notice the larger boggy pool round which you wind right. After a pause at the cairn on this rather featureless height, make your return by the same path. There are six or seven paths radiating from the cairn and they all look the same. You will know you are on the correct one when you pass to the left of the boggy pool you noted earlier.

  4. Enjoy the great view of Blencathra as you return across the moor to the col crossed earlier, at the left end of the mountain. Here bear slightly right and then left to reach the start of a path that keeps to the left side of the River Glenderamackin. At first it is rough and a bit scrambly but it rapidly becomes a fine grassy track. Stop as you descend and turn round for a spectacular view of the ‘saddleback’ of the mountain and the very sharp, Sharp Edge. The path descends steadily to White Horse Bent and here you should watch for the narrow grassy footpath dropping down to a wide tractor bridge over the river.
  5. Beyond climb up the slope, which looks much worse than it really is. At the top wind a little right, with the path and then turn left to another meeting of paths. Curve left to start your gentle ascent of Souther Fell. (1680ft/522km). Where the path divides don’t be tempted to head, left, for the well kept cairn but continue gently climbing to reach the summit, marked by a tiny hump of stones from where you have another glorious view. Now a decision has to be made. The path from the summit goes on pleasingly and then makes a long steepish descent with just a little scrambling. Just before the last drop, a post with a large white arrow directs you right along a steadily descending path, through a wet area and on for well over 1/4 mile to the end of enclosed fields. Wind round the last fence and descend a short way to the road to Scales. Turn left and walk on towards the Mill Inn. Here take a pleasing footbridge over the Glenderamackin to return to the car park.

  6. A much easier return involves returning from the summit cairn of Souther Fell for a 1/4mile. Then a drop down, left, over the pathless slope, keeping to the left of some boggy patches. Ignore the first little path going left and take the next, a slittle further down the slope. At first this is narrow but quite clear. Soon it becomes wider and then it becomes a wide green track, a joy to walk. This route down gives you time to enjoy the glorious flat land below, stretching away to the Pennines. The last 50yds are rather vague but by this time you can see the narrow road, which you should join by the gate across the road. Carry on along the road to arrive at Mill Inn and the wooden bridge across to the car park.
Practicals
  • Start/finish: Small parking area (£2) Mungrisedale village below Mill Inn and opposite the Recreational Centre (GR364303)
  • Distance: 9 1/2 miles/15km
  • Time: 5 hours
  • Height gain: 2051ft/662m
  • Terrain: Good walking after dry weather but can be a peaty walk in places after heavy rain
  • Map: OS Explorer OL 5 The English Lakes north-eastern area
  • Refreshments: Mill Inn, Mungrisdale

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For more photos, see "Walk from Mungrisedale Village" on Flickr.

If you enjoyed this blog post, find more walks by Mary Welsh either by clicking through to take a look at A list of walks in the Lake District or use the search bar in the top left hand of your screen.

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

Sunday 29 November 2009

A walk to keep you dryshod during the floods

When planning my next walk, knowing that every field would be sodden and every footpath awash, I puzzled just where it would be possible to go. Even driving from my home to start a walk would be difficult because of the many bridges that were broken, or to which access was denied, because of the battering they had taken from the torrents. Workington, Cockermouth, Keswick and Millom were cut off. Parts of Ulverston and much of Backbarrow were flooded. In the end I decided that I would try a lane walk, fairly close to my home, and start from a parking area above the floods.

  1. From the parking layby walk south for a few steps along the A5092. There is no pavement, so tuck in well. Turn right into a narrow lane and climb gently to pass a tiny church. (Sadly, it was firmly locked when I tried to enter.) Go on up the lane and follow it as it winds right, ignoring any signed footpaths into the flooded fields or woods. Carry on past several dwellings at Wood End, and look for the signed walled track going on ahead. (This has a stony base and, during my walk, looked as if it had had water flowing down it previously but was now passable and quite delightful.)
  2. Follow the track as it descends to pretty Beck Bottom, through rolling pastures, many with floods shining silvery in the weak sun. (Flowering shrubs and yellowing leaves of bushes made this a welcoming hamlet.) Go with the track as it winds right and rises to a narrow road. Turn acute left and walk the traffic-free way for a mile as it climbs over the lower slopes of Lowick Common and then below Lowick Beacon, with glorious views across green pastures, criss-crossed with drystone walls.

  3. After descending to a valley, turn right, climbing gently to a large sign indicating a cattle grid. Stroll this gated narrow lane past Nettleslack farm and climb steadily. (Here large rainbows flickered over the charming farmhouse. Continue on the narrow lane as it curves round more high slopes, to the right, to reach Knapperthaw farm. At the signpost wind right to go on along a little stretch of the Cumbria Way to reach a wider lane. Bear right and walk for a mile along the hedged way, which has no pavements and very little traffic. Enjoy the views across the valley as you pass the small complex at Wood Gate and press on to reach the A5092. Cross with care and head on down a similar lane with a little more traffic. Look ahead as you go to see Lowick Church towering up beyond the trees. Remain on the lane ignoring a right and then a left turn.
  4. Pass the entrance to Lowick Hall and then the church. Just beyond is the very fine ‘green’ village hall, charming to look at and with a walled area open sided to the lane. It has fine seating and is just the place for a break Continue down the lane to pass the Red Lion Inn. Cross the A5084 and walk ahead to stand on splendid Lowick Bridge over the River Crake. (From here the angry river raged on during my walk, spilling over its banks and across a large flat pasture as it roared on its way. If it freoze soon, I pondered, what a skating rink the pasture would make.)
  5. Beyond the bridge, where the road splits, wind right and walk this lovely lane for 1 1/4 miles, high above the Crake. ( I had dramatic views of its fury and of its flooding.) The traffic-free road gradually winds down to reach the hamlet of Spark Bridge. Cross the bridge over the River Crake once more. (It had just been inspected and was found to be safe, though the surging water almost touched the roof of its arch.) Continue past the welcoming Royal Oak, and then on up to the A5902. At the Farmer’s Arms cross to the parking place. (Alas, it had a notice outside ‘Closed due to flooding’ but I hoped it wouldn’t be for long.)


Practicals
  • Start/finish: Part of the old road, by-passed by the A5092 and lying to its west side, grid ref 302850
  • Distance: 6 1/2 miles/10.5km
  • Time: 3 hours
  • Height gain: Very little
  • Terrain: All lane walking except for track from Wood End to Beck Bottom
  • Refreshments: the two inns at Spark Bridge
For more photos, see "A walk to keep you dryshod during the floods" on Flickr.

If you enjoyed this blog post, find more walks by Mary Welsh either by clicking through to take a look at A list of walks in the Lake District or use the search bar in the top left hand of your screen.

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

Sunday 22 November 2009

A walk to Haystacks


This walk takes you into the heart of the Lakeland hills. After crossing Warnscale Bottom and ascending the old packhorse route between Buttermere and Wasdale, known as Scarth Gap, a partly pitched path takes you up to the two cairned serrated craggy summit of Haystacks. The route continues past two lovely tarns set in a rocky wilderness. The return descent is by a path once used by miners to bring down slate to the valley bottom.
  1. From the car park, turn left and, in a few steps, take the signposted bridleway on the left just past Gatesgarth Cottages to walk beside the beck. Continue along the path, parallel with Buttermere, across the valley bottom to cross Peggy’s bridge. Beyond, go through a gate and turn right for a short way and then bear sharp left to climb a stony rising path beside a small plantation. Continue on up the long pitched path up Scarth Gap Pass to reach Scarth Gap.
  2. At the large cairn on the brow of the Pass, look for the partly pitched rocky path that climbs up, left, towards the western face of Haystacks. Near the top, scramble up some small crags to the summit, with a cairn at either end of a small ridge and a small nameless tarn, where you will want to pause.

  3. Continue over the delightful top, heather-clad and with outcrops, to reach Innominate Tarn, Alfred Wainwright’s favourite and where his ashes were scattered. Another pause here might reveal reflections of Great Gable and Pillar Rock. Go on along a ‘passage’ between rocks to cross the outflow from Blackbeck Tarn. Follow the cairned path as it takes you right of Green Crag. Once beyond a path, going off right, look for a path descending left.
  4. Take the steepish cairned way. Go past old buildings of the disused Green Crag quarry. Here slate was ‘mined’ and as it was deeply embedded these workings were known as ‘closehead’ workings, where slaters toiled by candlelight and in difficult conditions. Then look, left, for a breach in the skyline through which descends Black Beck, crossed earlier. Follow the old quarry path as it descends in a series of zig-zags below the forbidding north face of Haystacks.
  5. Just after a waterfall the path takes a sharp turn, left, and goes down to a footbridge over the Warnscale Beck. Carry on along the often wet trod to join the main track descending more sedately from the slopes above and bear left along it for 1.4km to return to the road and then left to car park.
Practicals
  • Start/finish: Small pay-and-display car park opposite Gatesgarth Farm at east end of Buttermere, grid ref 195149
  • Map: OS Explorer OL4
  • Distance: 5km/3 miles
  • Time: 2-3 hours
  • Height gain: 495m/1635ft
  • Terrain: Paths pitched for most of Scarth Gap Pass and partly for ascent of Haystacks. Some scrambling towards summit.
  • Refreshments: The Fish, the Bridge Hotel and a good walkers cafĂ©, all at Buttermere village
  • Public toilets: Behind The Fish, Buttermere
  • Public transport: Traveline for info 0871 200 22 33

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For more photos, see "A walk to Haystacks" on Flickr.

If you enjoyed this blog post, find more walks by Mary Welsh either by clicking through to take a look at A list of walks in the Lake District or use the search bar in the top left hand of your screen.

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

Thursday 19 November 2009

A walk to Low Sweden Bridge, High Sweden Bridge and Stock Ghyll Force

This glorious walk leads on to the lower fell slopes just above Ambleside, takes in two delightful ancient bridges, and the magnificent Stock Ghyll Force. Once the small market town of Ambleside rang to the sound of clogged feet as workers trudged to the mills - these drew their power from the becks that tumbled between the houses. Today the becks still flow noisily on their way to Windermere but the other noise is that of happy visitors, many of whom are walkers.
  1. Leave by the vehicle entrance to the car park and turn right to cross the road, with care, at the roundabout. Climb a very short way up steep Kirkstone Road (The Struggle) and turn into the first left. At the Y-junction walk Nook Lane, signposted ‘To Low Sweden Bridge’ and continue on passing many fine houses with magnificent views over the village to the fells beyond. Carry on to the end of tarmac, and then descend the on-going track to cross - with cameras handy - the fine bridge over the Scandale Beck.
  2. Follow the main track as it zig-zags uphill. Pause often to enjoy the superb views, left, up through the Lakes with a first glimpse of Rydal Water. The distinct way passes through wall gaps and keeps on until you go over a wall by a ladderstile. Just beyond, are the remains of a sheepfold. Here descend, right, to climb another ladderstile over a lower wall. Then descend more, wind round a hillock on your left and the delectable High Sweden Bridge lies below. It is reached by the path dropping down by a fence and then through a gate.
  3. This is a true packhorse bridge, with no parapets to hinder the panniers on laden horses. You will want to use your camera here and perhaps take a break on the smooth rocks on the other side of the bridge, that stretch back from the shallow pool downstream of the bridge.
  4. Then continue on the narrow path along the waterside to bear right on to an old packhorse route. This gated way passes through fine deciduous woodland, with the Scandale Beck deep in its steep-sided gill, the haunt of dippers. Look for two old quarries on the left. Notice the sturdy openings at the base of the wall through which tumble streams, hurrying to join the beck below. Once out of the trees look for a gate into pastures on the left, made up of parallel poles. The gradually descending track ends at a gate on the edge of Ambleside.
  5. Beyond walk on a few steps to take the signed left turn along a wide track between houses. Cross a narrow road and go on to the end of track. Pass through a small iron gate at the top of three steps, on your left, and then follow the path climbing gently beside larch woodland on you right. At the top of the slope wind a little left and take a gated step-stile through the wall on your right. Continue on a good path across the large pasture to a gate onto a wide track, with woodland to your left and a glimpse of Windermere to your right. Stroll this pleasing track all the way to reach The Struggle at a narrow corner of the road.
  6. Go left, with care, for 180m/200yds, to take an access track on the right side of the road, beyond Sunny Bank cottages, to Roundhill farm. Pass through a kissing gate on right. Descend the zig-zagging track to side of Stockghyll beck and walk left to cross the tractor bridge over the stream. Climb the path up the slope to join a traffic-free tarmacked lane and walk right, first pausing to look left to see Red Screes and the white-painted Kirkstone Inn.
  7. Just beyond the cattle grid, pass through the Victorian turnstile, on the right, into Stock Ghyll Park. Follow the red waymarks, right and then left, before stepping up to the railed edge of an immense ravine to see the spectacular waterfalls, particularly tumultuous after rain or snow. After your pause here, turn right and go on down through the lovely wooded slopes, with the beck to your right, to join the road. Stroll downhill and then bear right to dawdle through Ambleside and then on to car the park.
Practicals
  • Start/Finish: Main pay-and-display car park at the northern end of Ambleside grid ref 376047
  • Map: OS Explorer OL 7. English Lakes south-eastern
  • Distance: 7.5km/4 3/4 miles
  • Time: 2-3 hours
  • Height gain: 320m/989ft
  • Terrain: Distinct paths and tracks; packhorse track quite rough after the winter weather. Some road walking
  • Refreshments: Spoilt for choice in Ambleside
For more photos, see "A walk to Low Sweden Bridge, High Sweden Bridge and Stockghyll Force" on Flickr.

If you enjoyed this blog post, find more walks by Mary Welsh either by clicking through to take a look at A list of walks in the Lake District or use the search bar in the top left hand of your screen.

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

Mary Welsh’s Golden Rules for good safe walking

  • Wear suitable clothes and take adequate waterproofs.
  • Walk in strong footwear; well cared for walking boots advisable.
  • Carry the relevant map and compass and know how to use them.
  • It is wise to familarise yourself with the route and mark it up before you set off.
  • Carry a whistle; remember six long blasts repeated at one minute intervals is the distress signal.
  • Carry a head torch.
  • Do not walk alone, and tell someone where you are going.
  • If mist descends, return.
  • Keep all dogs under strict control. Observe all “No Dogs” notices – they are put there for very good reasons.
I have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all the walks, but changes do occur. The author cannot accept responsiblity for errors, omissions or any loss or injury.

Thursday 12 November 2009

A walk beside Loweswater

Loweswater turns to the north-west and is the smallest of three lovely lakes often grouped together, the others being Buttermere and Crummock Water. The first part of the walk takes you above the lake on easy graded paths and tracks, with magnificent views for much of the way. The return route leads you beside the charming lake through pleasing deciduous woodland and makes a short detour to see a series of delectable falls, known as Holme Force.

High Nook Farm, built in the sixteenth century, is set among Scots pine. It stands near to an old coffin track that crossed above the farm and continued along the lower slopes of Carling Knott. The coffins, carried on horseback, were taken this way for the dead to be buried at St Bees Abbey.
  1. From the small parking area turn left for a couple of steps and then right to cross Dubb’s Beck by Maggie’s Bridge. Stride on across the flat lush pastures of the valley on Maggie Lonnin, with fine views ahead of Carling Knott and Black Crag, the latter a spur of Gavel Fell, which lies behind. To your left looms the large bulk of Mellbreak. Remain on the track as it begins to rise towards High Nook Farm. At 0.5km beyond, at a junction of tracks, take the right branch. At the next Y-junction, a short way along, walk the left branch leading to little High Nook Tarn, a quiet sheet of water lying in a hollow between Carling Knott and Black Crag.
  2. After your visit return to the Y-junction and turn left on an indistinct path. Step across two little streams, negotiate small patches of bog and then follow a grassy swathe that leads down to a footbridge over Highnook Beck, which remains hidden almost to the last step. Beyond, wind a little left and then take, right, the pleasing grassy bridleway that ascends, easily, the southern slopes of Carling Knott to the top corner of Holme Wood. Here the way winds round along the side of the stiled walled plantation of Scots pine with the dour north slopes of Carling Knott now to your left. The bridleway then moves away from the wall and descends to a wide tractor bridge over Holme Beck. Walk on along the continuing track that rises quickly and curves round high on the steep rocky side of Burnbank Fell. Pause here on the open fell, to look over the forest and across the lake for splendid views of Grasmoor and Whiteside.

  3. Carry on for 1.5km along the excellent roller-coaster grassy way, with more fine views across West Cumbria and of Darling Fell on the other side of the Loweswater, the latter glimpsed far below. This delectable high-level way brings you to a ladderstile and a gate. Beyond, pause again as you turn right beside the wall, to see all of Loweswater and the tip of Crummock Water. Follow the track downhill and also where it wends left to pass through another gate. Stroll on, bearing right, to pass twin hillocks on your right. Just where the track bends left and continues to the road, turn right through two gates, onto a pasture and walk ahead beside the wall on the right. Then descend a pleasing grassy path towards Iredale Place, with more good views of Loweswater ahead. Go through two gates and continue ahead, ignoring a track off to the left. Walk the roughly reinforced gated track, with more views of the foot of the lake, to pass right of Jenkinson Place.
  4. Head on to the next gate to stroll beside a row of hawthorns to your left. Just before Hudson Place, look for a stile, on your left, tucked into the hedge and, beyond, follow the wall of the garden round right to join the access track to the farm. Bear right, signed for Holme Wood, to pass the dwelling and then go left through a gate to walk a walled track heading towards the lake. Dawdle through scattered oaks and look on the lake for pochard, coot and goldeneye. Then go through a gate into glorious deciduous woodland, which at first stretches gently upward and then very steeply to the pines walked above, much earlier. Just before the footbridge over Holme Beck, turn right along an wide track and then ascend a little to stand on another footbridge to see Holme Force plummeting white-topped from high above.

  5. Return to the main track, turn right, cross the footbridge and follow the pleasing way to emerge from the trees by a gate. Stroll the bridleway round, left, to pass Watergate Farm and go on to curve right, with Mellbreak immediately ahead. A short way along, on the left, you reach the car park.
Practicals
  • Start/finish: Small parking area by Maggie’s Bridge, Loweswater, grid ref 135211
  • Map: OS Explorer OL4
  • Distance: 10.5km/6 1/2 miles
  • Time: 3-4 hours
  • Height gain: 170m/560ft
  • Terrain: Good tracks and paths
  • Refreshments: Kirkstyle Inn, Loweswater
For more photos, see "A walk beside Loweswater" on Flickr.

If you enjoyed this blog post, find more walks by Mary Welsh either by clicking through to take a look at A list of walks in the Lake District or use the search bar in the top left hand of your screen.

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

A walk through Longsleddale

To many walkers this is the most beautiful dale in the Lake District. Through it runs one narrow metalled lane that continues for seven miles to its end at Sadgill. In summer its hedgerows are a glorious array of wild flowers. To one side lie exquisite buttercup meadows that descend delightfully to the River Sprint, which flows quietly here through it tree-shadowed banks on its way to join the Kent. To the east rise steep grassy slopes, seldom walked.

Ahead, as you continue, the craggy top of Kentmere Pike, bulky Harter Fell and Brantstree dramatically fill the skyline, and up through this wild head climbs Gatescarth Pass, a rugged track, the old way to Mardale and Haweswater.

Picturesque farms lie scattered through out the dale and half way along stands St Mary’s Church. It had been closed for refurbishment but now the interior walls have been whitewashed, the woodwork varnished and the grass in the churchyard cut. Much of the work was done by the families that live in the valley, in time for a wedding, an exciting happening in this lovely dale.
Opposite the church stands the community hall, once the valley school. Beside it a large parking area has been provided, two picnic tables and a loo - exceedingly well looked after with a vase of flowers on the window cill.


  1. From the parking area, walk on along the lane for a short way to take a wide left turn. Descend the track to cross the River Sprint and bear right to pass through a gate onto an access track that winds through the meadows and leads to the first dwelling, Hollin Root. Just before the house, climb the slope on the left. Pass through a waymarked gate onto a wide walled ancient track, which winds left. It then rises gently, taking you above Spring Wood, the haunt of that now rare bird, the cuckoo. It is well reinforced all the way to the fell wall and a gate, which gives onto open access moorland beyond. Go ahead on the continuing track, which rises parallel with a wall to your left. Follow the grassy way as it, and the wall, curve right.
  2. Stroll on up over the heather moorland, through a kissing gate and, still keeping beside the wall, look right to see several stone grouse butts. Carry on, to where the grassy trod winds sharp right, with a waymark fifty meters along it. Notice the cotton grass, waving in the breeze reminding you that this is high boggy moorland. Another waymark soon directs you left to go through a gate in the next wall, with a tumbledown wooden sheepfold, beyond and to your left. Keep on the generally dry track as it rises and falls, with glimpses of Skeggles Water behind some rare low craggy outcrops. Cross the tractor bridge over Skeggleswater Dike and on through the waymarked gate. The path then winds and descends to a rather muddy junction of tracks. Pause here to look down over the lush walled pastures towards Staveley, contrasting sharply with the moorland.

  3. After a bit of bog hopping, caused by a stream using the same junction, turn right up a narrow reinforced path to start your return. It is soon joined by a wider track coming in on your left. Go on the steadily rising way and then descend to go through a gate at the opposite end of the wall passed through last. Follow the track as it passes between two solitary straggly hawthorns, set away from the path. Pass an ancient ruin on the left, and walk on until you reach a waymark directing you right down a path. This leads to the edge of shallow Skeggles Water where you might spot duck, black-headed gulls and little grebe. Then return to the waymark and turn right to continue on your way to Longsleddale.
  4. Pass through the next gate and look back for a pleasant overall view of the tarn. Continue on the waymarked path, past a smaller ruin and then, suddenly, the good path gets lost in another boggy area. Cross it where other walkers and cyclists have done, then climb straight up the little slope towards a derelict wall. Wind right to pass through a gate. Beyond, the path generally distinct, occasionally disappears in small boggy patches. After diverting round these wet areas, make sure you look around to pick up the path once more. Soon the slopes beyond Longsleddale come into view and the descending path, at first grassy and clear, disappears for a few steps and then resumes its downward way. It then swings left and traverses the slopes from where you can see the scattered houses of the valley and also Sadgill and its lovely bridge. Pause awhile to view the track climbing steeply up Gatescarth Pass before walking on to pass through the gate in the wall ahead.
  5. Follow the footpath beside the wall on your right and, at the next gate through it, look for the waymarks leading down a steep meadow. There is no path through the lush grass to follow as you descend to the wall at its foot. Here turn right and follow the waymarks, taking you beside a beck to pass to the left of the farmhouse, Till’s Hole. Just before the bridge over the Sprint turn right to walk a track beside it and pass through a signed gate. Keep beside the dancing water, with a steep slope to the right, and follow the path up to a gate, where you join the access track from Tom’s Howe. Go on ahead where there is a choice of ways to continue. Preferably cross the cattle grid and then climb a little right to go through a metal gate to rejoin the continuing track, which soon passes in front of a white house.
  6. Stroll ahead on the lovely way, keeping left of a ruined building and then on a long pasture to go through the next gate. Stay beside the river where, in summer, you might spot a merganser with her brood ‘ski-ing’ along beside her. Follow the wall, pass behind a farmhouse, then climb a little slope with the waymarked fence to your left. Press on to descend to a gate to join a wide track and walk right. Go through two gates at Hollin Root, pass in front of the house to take the left of the next two waymarked gates. Follow the long track, taken near the start of walk, cross the bridge and continue, left, to the road, where you turn right along the lane to the church.

Practicals

  • Start/finish: Large parking area opposite Longsleddale church, grid ref 522029.
  • Map: OS Explorer OL 7.
  • Distance: 12km/7 1/2 miles
  • Time: 4 hours.
  • Height Gain: 250m/815ft
  • Terrain: Good tracks and grassy paths. Several boggy patches. Could be more after heavy rain. Don’t take short cuts over the tussocks or heather. Not to be attempted in the mist. Be alert for cyclists who enjoy this route and whose bikes make no noise on the grass and tracks.
  • Refreshments: Spoilt for choice in Kendal.

For more photos, see "A walk through Longsleddale" on Flickr.

If you enjoyed this blog post, find more walks by Mary Welsh either by clicking through to take a look at A list of walks in the Lake District or use the search bar in the top left hand of your screen.

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

Friday 6 November 2009

A walk along the Keswick Railway Track to Castlerigg Stone Circle

The Cockermouth, Keswick and Penrith railway line was last used by trains in 1972. The trackbed crosses and re crosses the lovely meandering River Greta, using bowstring steel bridges – some are upright and some are underslung. In the 1980s the Lake District National Park Authority (LNPA) created the footpath and have maintained it well since then.


Castlerigg Stone Circle stands on a flat area in a large pasture surrounded at a distance by some of the Lake District’s most dramatic fells. The circle is believed to have been put in place during the Stone Age, between BC 2,500 and 1,300. It may have been used as a meeting place for bartering livestock, exchanging partners or celebrating tribal festivals. It may also have been used to calculate the cycle of seasons vital for farmers.


Walk

  1. From the parking area, return to the trackbed and walk on to cross the long bridge over the River Greta, which here flows through a fine gorge. The bridge is an inverted bowstring constructed of steel girders. Thomas Bouch designed them in this way to span the many gorges on the Greta - he also designed the ill-fated Tay Bridge! Go on to pass under a road bridge and then past the historic settlement of Brigham, which lies in a tree-girt hollow. The fast-flowing Greta was ideal for powering the mills established here from the 14th century onwards. Above the hamlet stretches the white-stilted viaduct carrying the A66.
  2. Go on past a sculptured signpost to come to a gate below the modern-day bridge. Another gate gives access to a well graded descending wooden walkway, one of the LDNPs innovations. It passes high over a picturesque stretch of the river. Continue on the pleasing way to go past Low Briery Holiday Village. Read the interesting information board about the history of the area including its bobbin mill, which closed in 1961. Stroll on, crossing more bridges to reach a refurbished hut, on the right, once used by the navvies (navigators), the builders of the track. There is more information here about the railway line, and seats both inside and out.


  3. Cross the next bridge and, at its end, turn right onto a signposted path that ascends through trees to a kissing gate. Beyond, go on to half-way up the field above to a signpost that directs you, right. Pass through another kissing gate and then on through the refurbished underpass below the busy A66. Once through, take the next signed kissing gate and slant up the slope to the road - the old route to Keswick from Penrith. Turn left and then, after0.5km, bear right. A short way along turn right again and walk the quiet way for 1km to the entrance of the stone circle, where you will want to wander around the great stones. They form an oval shape but this circle is unique in having extra stones forming an oblong on one side.
  4. After enjoying this wonderful atmospheric site return to the road and continue on along it for 1.2km (no pavement) to join the A591 coming in on your right, which you cross and walk on for a few steps. Wind on round right for a few more steps, towards the town, and then descend right before the Travis Perkins Works to drop down steps to the railway track once more. Turn right, go under the road bridge and continue to cross the wide high bridge over the River Greta. A short way on along the track beyond brings you back to the parking area.
Practicals
  • Start/finish: The old station yard at Keswick, OS Explorer OL4. If approaching from the south east on the A591 and the A5271, turn acute right just before you reach the main shopping centre, at a major junction signposted for the museum, leisure centre and Keswick Hotel. Follow the road past the museum, and where it winds round the hotel. Continue on round to a mini-roundabout. Turn left and left again, just before the rear of the leisure centre, to make use of the parking bays at the end of the old railway track.
  • Distance: 7.4km/4.1/2 miles
  • Time: 2-3 hours
  • Height gain: 40m/130ft
  • Terrain: The old railway track is level and in good condition. Some quiet road walking.
  • Refreshments: Good choice in Keswick
For more photos, see "A walk along the Keswick Railway Track to Castlerigg Stone Circle" on Flickr.

If you enjoyed this blog post, find more walks by Mary Welsh either by clicking through to take a look at A list of walks in the Lake District or use the search bar in the top left hand of your screen.

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

A walk to Cold Pike and Pike o'Blisco

Cold Pike and Pike o’ Blisco, two fine fells separated by a broad flat col, lie to the north of the brow of Wrynose Pass. The path to the col, originally made by miners, leads from the north side of Pass, goes by the Red Tarn and then descends into Oxendale and Great Langdale. It is well used by walkers and the surface had become quite rough from the trampling of many boots and from weathering. However some repairs have been made since last winter and many bags of stone have been delivered to the side of the path and more work is being done.

Cold Pike visited first, on grass – sometimes boggy grass, has three rocky summits and it is difficult to tell which is the highest; it is possible to reach all three and then perhaps you can make up your own mind. The OS map seems to suggest that the one to the north is the highest, but when looking at them from below each one, in turn, seems to be higher than the other two.


To reach Pike o’ Blisco, the reinforced path becomes quite red as you descend from Cold Pike. Look for tiny pieces of the iron-ore, haematite, among the red sandstone. Pick up a small piece and feel how heavy it is.


The path up to shapely Pike o’ Blisco leaves from the col and takes you fairly easily to the summit, the rocks giving good purchase to your boots. The descent, seemingly rarely used, is mainly on grass, a delight to come down to the main track, with only a short distance before you reach the Pass.

The walk
  1. From the Three Shire Stone, on Wrynose Pass, take the signed footpath on the same side of the narrow road. Follow it as it winds round a marshy area and then begins to climb. Just before it turns sharp right, look for an easy-to-miss tiny cairn (just a few stones) on your left. This is the indistinct start of the path to Cold Pike. Once away from the main track the path emerges but then it gets lost in a wet area where you will have to find your own way. Beyond, it becomes distinct, taking you half-right over the hillocky fellside, towards the three humps of the Pike.
  2. Step across a small stream and go on until you reach a wider beck, the infant river Duddon, which you also cross. Turn right here, even though the distinct path goes ahead. Pick your way over rough ground with small vestiges of a path, remaining parallel with the beck for short way, until you reach a good path ahead. Turn left and follow it straight up the slopes before it slants half-right. The path weaves between rocks and boulders and brings you beside the first craggy summit, with a prominent cairn on top, which you might wish to climb, just in case it is the highest point. If not remain on the path that winds round the foot of craggy slopes to a flatter grassy open area with a cairned summit to your left. Then carry on, winding round the crags on your right, to the north side. Climb up here using grassy patches between the outcrops to reach a fine cairn. This is probably the highest of the three summits (701m/2259ft). From here across a shatter of rocks you can see another cairn. The view of the Crinkles, with Bowfell peeping over the top, and of Pike o’ Bliscoe, is stunning.
  3. Descend the same way and re-join the path to carry on beside a small beck, to your left. Then drop down to the wide track, used by many walkers climbing up to start their walk along the Crinkles. Turn right and descend to step across the outlet from Red Tarn and carry on along the now red path. Climb the narrower path immediately ahead in the direction of Pike o’ Blisco. The path has been reinforced in the past and leads you distinctly upwards. When in doubt look for rough cairns, and go on. As you near the top the cairns are larger and it is best to follow them, though there are several other small paths, leading upwards. Eventually a grassy path leads you up a gully to the summit plateau.
  4. To reach the splendid colourful summit cairn (705m/2304ft), turn left and walk along the plateau, winding between the rocks and ledges, and then curve round right on easy rocks to reach the cairn, situated on a platform of naked rock. Just below are shelves of rock, out of the north wind, ideal for your lunch break. Return along the plateau towards the second top, not quite so high or so perfect a cairn, which you might wish to ascend. Descend from this by the same route and continue on, a little east, ignoring any paths heading down to Great Langdale or Blea Tarn.
  5. Wind right, west, below the southern face of the Pike, on a clear grassy path. This drops pleasantly down, passing through low ridges of rocks to go on following the path in the direction of Black Crag. As you approach you can see the cairn on the top and may wish to make the short climb to it. If so, return by the same route to pick up the path once more. Stroll on the path as it curves a little east below Black Crag and passes through a small but very wet area, where it gets lost, only to reappear in a few steps. Pause here to look at Black Crag’s Needle, which so impressed Alfred Wainwright. He described it as follows “The smooth and slender pinnacle, detached from the face of Black Crag, is precariously balanced on a massive plinth of rock, 12 ft high, the total height to the tip being 35ft”.


  6. Carry on along the path so that you can by-pass Long Crag, keeping to its eastern end. Then the path slants right, goes on down and becomes fainter and fainter, passing an unusual sheepfold away to your left. Keep on down in the same general direction, past a walled sheepfold to your right, from where you can probably spot the cars on the brow of the Pass. Suddenly you arrive at the main path where you turn left to descend to where you have parked

Practicals
  • Start/finish: The brow of Wrynose Pass, close to the Three Shire Stone, grid ref 276027, where there are several spaces. Just beyond, in the direction of Little Langdale, is a larger hard standing area, on the south side of the road, with enough room for eight to ten cars.
  • Map: OS Explorer OL6, Lakes south-western area.
  • Distance: 9.5km/6miles
  • Time: 4-5 hours.
  • Height gain: 1428ft/345m.
  • Terrain: Grassy paths for most of the way to Cold Pike. Reinforced paths, rough in a few places, from Cold Pike summit to Pike o’ Blisco’s summit. Grassy descent almost to Wrynose Pass parking.
  • Refreshments: Three Shires Inn, Little Langdale. The Newfield, Seathwaite.

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This article appeared originally in Cumbria magazine.

For more photos, see "A walk to Cold Pike and Pike o'Blisco" on Flickr.

If you enjoyed this blog post, find more walks by Mary Welsh either by clicking through to take a look at A list of walks in the Lake District or use the search bar in the top left hand of your screen.

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

Thursday 5 November 2009

Profile of Mary Welsh

"Every year hundreds of walkers in the Lake District place themselves in the hands of Mary Welsh. Meet her and it isn't hard to see why," says Cumbria Life magazine. "A sixty-something, she's enthusiastic, imperturbable and, above all, considerate - someone you would happily rely on."

Mary is an award-winning writer of walking books and a travel writer, having produced more than forty walking guide books. She writes regular columns in newspapers (290 walks in the Westmorland Gazette to date), in several magazines including Country Walking (over 385 walks) and for the internet. She has broadcast and appeared on television.

She says “I stood in London’s Oxford Street the other day. A drill was digging up the pavement, the crowds were enormous, the traffic horrendous, I thought ‘What am I doing here? I must be mad. I must return now, to Cumbria, put on my waterproofs and boots and set off into the quiet of the Lakes to where I feel I really belong’ – and I did just that.”

Mary's Walks in the Lake District have been published by the following:

Dalesman

Walks Around Coniston and Hawkshead
Walks Around Ullswater
Teashop Walks in the Lake District

Questa
Easy Rambles Around Wasdale
Easy Rambles Around Dunnerdale
Easy Rambles Around Eskdale
Walks with Children –Malham & Airedale
Walks with Children – Ribblesdale
Walks with children – Wensleydale
Walks with Children – Swaledale
New book to be published in 2010, Easy Rambles Around Ennerdale

Cicerone
Walks to Yorkshire Waterfalls
More Walks to Yorkshire Waterfalls
Lancaster Canal Walks
Walks from the Leeds-Liverpool Canal
Waterfall Walks – Teesdale and the High Pennines
Walking in Lancashire

Sigma
Country Walks around Kendal
Walking the Howgills
North Lakeland Walks with Children
Walking the Lakeland Fringes – The South-West

Countryside
A Country Journal

Westmorland Gazette
A Naturalist’s Guide to Lakeland Waterfalls
A Second Naturalist’s Guide to Lakeland Waterfalls
A Third Naturalist’s guide to Lakeland Waterfalls
A Fourth Naturalist’s Guide to Lakeland Waterfalls
Welsh Walks in Cumbria
Bowness Walks

Clan Walk Guides
Walking The Isle of Arran
Walking The Isle of Skye
Walking Wester Ross
Walking Perthshire
Walking The Western Isles
Walking Orkney
Walking Shetland
Walking The Isles of Islay, Jura and Colonsay
Walking Glenfinnan, The Road to the Isles (Morar, Ardnamurchan, Moidart, Morven, Canna, Rum, Eigg & Muck)
Walking The Isles of Mull (Iona, Coll and Tiree)
Walking Dumfries and Galloway
Walking Argyll and Bute
Walking Deeside, Donside and Angus
Walking The Trossachs, Loch Lomondside and the Campsie Fells
Walking Glencoe, Lochaber and the Great Glen
Walking Strathspey, Moray, Banff and Buchan

Other Clan books in preparation (to be published in 2010)
Loch Ness, Easter Ross and the Black Isle
Caithness and Sutherland

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

A list of walks in the Lake District

To find your Walk in the Lake District, please click on any of the geographical regions below. Alternatively find your Walk in the Lake District through the search box to the right.

All walks give details as to the route and a list of practicals such as map reference and length of walk.

Please read Mary Welsh's Golden Rules for good, safe walking before setting out.

Walks in the Northern Lake District
Walks in the Western Lake District
Walks in the Eastern Lake District
Walks in the Southern Lake District
Walks in the North Eastern Lake District
Walks in North Western Lake District
Walks in the South Western Lake District
Walks in the South Eastern Lake District